http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554036-REG/Tokina_ATX116PRODXN_11_16mm_f_2_8_AT_X_116.html
add a http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/674566-REG/Kenko_PRO3001_4XDGXN_Teleplus_PRO_300_DG.html
for an effective 14-22mm/4 combination on an FX camera.
Actually the Kenko TC appears to be a way to mount any DX lens on a FX camera and have decent performance out of the combination.
You get a 1.4x boost and a 1 stop loss on aperture.
http://www.photozone.de
http://www.dpreview.com
http://www.slrgear.com
http://www.lenstip.com
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/
An explanation on what the ISO-standard says:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Help/ISO-12233.aspx
Now remember that these reviews often only cover ONE SAMPLE LENS.
What you get as you buy one might be something else.
Especially in combination with the camera body you have.
My advice is: On any of these sites, find a lens that you OWN… then COMPARE that lens to the others on the site – this will give you a good hint on how the lens you compare to performs, and if you have thoughts about it you also have a reference that can be tried and tested.
http://diyphotography.net/build-a-semi-anamorphic-35mm-pinhole-camera
a d
+------\---------+ ^
| \ | |
| x | 56mm
+---------\------+ v
c b
<---- 115mm ---->
To cut up the side pieces;
- cut up a piece of board so that is 115x56mm,
- then make a mark 38mm from the left edge at a) and from the right edge at b)
- cut along the shown line.
- make marks at 38 mm once again, at c) and d)
- measure 46mm from a) against b), to get x),
- cut from x) to c)
- lay the pieces on top of each other so that c) and d) are at the same place
- cut at d) along the edge that differs.
… these form the side pieces.
The remaining pieces are rectangular:
2pcs 122×32 mm, with a centered hole on both – these are to hold the pinhole.
1pcs each that are 42, 46 and 56 mm – and 122mm wide. Ooops one more that is 42! (top&bottom)
53mm wide pieces, 2pcs each of 20, 21 and 29.
One more piece 53mm high, that is 75mm long and has a centered rectangular hole of 65x24mm – to allow the film to see light through.
The pieces [mm]
Side pieces as described above… 115×56 together.
122×32 (centered hole), 122×32 (centered hole), 122×42, 122×46, 122×56
53×20, 53×20, 53×21, 53×21, 53×29, 53×29, 53×75 (65x24mm centered hole).
One piece of aluminium foil, to cover the hole in the first to pieces (mounted between them), to allow making the pinhole.
Add: Glue, tape, shutter!, film, cartridges, filmforwarding…
Edit: 2011-06-12 @ 17:20 for a summary of the pieces.
Edit: 2011-06-13 @ 20:18 missing one piece.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000GGV8QI/ref=pd_luc_mri?ie=UTF8&m=ASEW61MBB6WTF
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000CS40Z6/ref=pd_luc_mri?ie=UTF8&m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0009PTK1Q/ref=pd_luc_mri?ie=UTF8&m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
… add tripod and related items, using the fieldscope without the camera requires a “DS Fieldscope Eyepiece”
This makes up for a 1000mm, f13 lens for FX, equivalent of 1500/13 for DX.
Information provided by Nikon
http://www.nikon.com/products/sportoptics/lineup/dsystem/index.htm
“The cost equals about 1/3 of a dedicated SLR lens”.
http://blog.msawyerphotography.com/post/231931193/film-scanning-observations-and-tips
http://benneh.net/blog/2010/09/25/vuescan-colorperfect-a-guide/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/zgodzinski/3028562018/comment72157610038562397/
http://cjeastwd.blogspot.com/2010/06/nikon-noritsu-epson-scans-and-prints.html
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