Testing a set of them:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/photortuous/7030442219/in/photostream/
Testing a set of them:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/photortuous/7030442219/in/photostream/
Explaining the numbers behind “f-stops”
The basics, a brief summary:
Seems Nikon has 18 and 20mm budget primes for FX in the pipeline:
http://nikonrumors.com/2012/02/10/nikon-patent-for-18mm-f1-8-20mm-f1-8-fx-lenses.aspx/#more-33350
The budget prime set:
18/1.8 -
compare to using 12mm on DX, with e.g. Sigma 10-20 or Tokina 11-16 zooms (though these do not have f/1.8).
20/1.8 – compare to 13.3mm on DX (similar to above)
50/1.8 – AOV of a 75/1.8 (on FX)
85/1.8 -
compare to using the above 50/1.8 FX on DX, similar AOV as a “127mm” or even the 135/2.0 DC on FX.
The 50/1.8D is 130€ (or slightly more for AF-S version),
the 85/1.8 is 400€-ish, can we sexpect the 18 and 20 to be priced in a similar range maybe?
The 18mm seems to have a good amount of components, which might indicate a higher cost of production – and a higher sale price in the end. The 20 apparently has less amount of glass…
> Gimpology
Try this way:
a) Turn down exposure compensation to somewhere near -1 or -2 depending on what you’re shooting and where.
This makes the metering be where you are used to, no need to dial in “M” mode.
b) make sure to have SPOT metering active.
Makes it possible for YOU to decide what should be metered. Automatic isn’t always getting things right.
c) Adjust ISO upward if needed for faster shutter speeds.
For high ISO, be prepared to use noise reduction software.
Nikon D300:
d) Find the setting for autofocus on “AF-ON-only” and activate it.
YOU decide when AF should be attempted – anticipate shots, find focus BEFORE any action takes place and keep it there while taking more shots.
Now point that spot on different things for testing, and find out where you get what YOU want.
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