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Category: Technique
This actually is a very similar task on Windows and Linux.
Note: This assumes you have ExifTool installed such that it is found through “$PATH”
Open a command shell, in the shell type
Windows: Type the drive letter for the device where you have your photos, e.g.
P:
and hit enter.
Now
cd dir-for-photos
… and this – all on a single line, any line wraps shown here should be replaced by single space chars:
exiftool -r "*" -printformat '$DateTimeOriginal,$aperture,$shutterspeed,$iso,$model,$lens,$filename' >PhotoList.csv
Windows: type ”
cd
” and hit enter
Linux: type ”
pwd
” and hit enter
Use the means necessary to copy what cd/pwd (above) displayed.
Close the shell by;
Windows: type ”
exit
” and hit enter
Linux: press CTRL-D or type ”
logout
” and hit enter
Open OpenOffice calc (or Excel for those that have Office available)
Select File > Open from the menu
Paste the path you copied above into the file portion of the dialog for selecting files, hit enter or use any other means to make that path be the one you’re viewing; so that you can select to open the ”PhotoList.csv” file, hit enter or click “OK”, “Open” or whatever the display may show, for opening the file.
Now, you should be prompted with the text file import dialog.
Make sure you’re NOT trying to use fixed length fields, the choice should be “Delimited” or similar – click “Next”
Now, make sure the “Comma” delimiter is selected (others shouldn’t matter), then press OK.
The contents of the Sheet should now be a set of nicely separated colums with the information from the file.
Now, from here on you can treat the contents as any other spreadsheet, summarize using the available functions.
Simple means:
Insert rows above the top to make room for summaries.
Enter “=SUBTOTAL( 3 ; A2:A99999 )” in a cell to make OpenOffice tell you the count of visible cells in the range (Excel needs that first “3″ to be “103″ instead). Here you need to adjust “A2″ to be the actual start-cell of the leftmost column of the table and “A99999″ to be the end row of that column, for a correct value to be calculated.
Now Select the entire table (columns and rows, including the header row – assuming you added one!) by dragging with the mouse, then find Autofilter in the menus and turn it on.
Now the small drop down buttons in the title row of the autofilter region will allow you to filter out items using “Custom filters” (and a set of others too, depending on software version).
Depending on what you select to filter on, the above ”subtotal() ” will show the number of items displayed.
Good luck!
http://scottkelby.com/2012/its-guest-blog-wednesday-featuring-peter-hurley/
Posted 2012-02-15, Peter Hurley, “It’s all about the jawline”
Try this way:
a) Turn down exposure compensation to somewhere near -1 or -2 depending on what you’re shooting and where.
This makes the metering be where you are used to, no need to dial in “M” mode.
b) make sure to have SPOT metering active.
Makes it possible for YOU to decide what should be metered. Automatic isn’t always getting things right.
c) Adjust ISO upward if needed for faster shutter speeds.
For high ISO, be prepared to use noise reduction software.
Nikon D300:
d) Find the setting for autofocus on “AF-ON-only” and activate it.
YOU decide when AF should be attempted – anticipate shots, find focus BEFORE any action takes place and keep it there while taking more shots.
Now point that spot on different things for testing, and find out where you get what YOU want.
Film Chemicals Used:
Kodak Xtol (1+1 — 1+3) and HC110 mostly 1:64 (H),
Fomadon R09 “Rodinal” 1:40 to 1:100,
Caffenol as of caffenol.blogspot.com,
Paterson FX-39
Recent favorite method with Caffenol: caffenol.blogspot.com/2011/08/its-so-easy.html
The basic recipes: caffenol.blogspot.com/2010/08/recipes.html
Add iodized salt instead of KBr: caffenol.blogspot.com/search/label/iodized%20salt
All “always” in dilutions that make up development times above 10 minutes.
Films Used:
I do bulk load, so the types doesn’t change that often.
Tmax 400 (tests with pushing up to 3200),
Kentmere 400,
Fomapan 400,
Polestar Polypan F 50
Logging:
Here on this blog, hearkane.wordpress.com – use the search function or categories to find posts of interest.
Most of the blog is a huge pile of links off site.
Method:
A. Tap water filled on plastic bottles a few days before use.
Note that this will make the water contain a bit less air and also allow it to get to an even temperature, the temperature of the room the bottles are kept in.
B. ‘Developer temperature’ measurement in the bottles,
To know if the temperature differs from 20°C (68°F), which might make it necessary to adjust develpment time. One degree C may make up for a one minute adjustment – warmer => shorter, colder => longer.
Note that a warmer developer means higher activity, which will exaggerate grain to some degree even when time has been adjusted.
C. Load film in tank. Cut a piece of leader off EVERY film loaded in the tank, make the cut be perpendicular to the length and cut off small “chips” of the corners on the remaining film. This will make it easier to load it into the spiral.
For 35mm film exposed in a Nikon F100 you have at least 4 frames (160mm, 6+inches) worth of length to cut from.
D. Developer mixing using water from bottles.
I use a Paterson “System 4″ tank that takes two 135 or one 120 -type film, it allows others too – but those are the extremes. The tank needs 300ml of liquid per 135-film, I have lately begun to add up 20% extra to be sure the liquids DO cover the film fully – this seems to be more important with liquids/chemicals that tend to foam… as is the case with caffenol.
E. Calculate development time adjustment using the excel sheet, temperature adjustment from the standard time. I do ofthen add a percentage of up to 30% more ‘seconds’ for higher contrast – many times, depending on type of development attempted. The formulas for time adjustment are here.
F. Do take notes!
Taking notes allows checking against the result afterwards, adjusting for mistakes or otherwise tainted results as you’re about to develop the next time.
If you don’t writes notes you’re relying on memory – which has a tendency to be a bit flaky / volatile.
0. No prewash.
There is a lot of discussion and argument around this on many places on the ‘net. My opinion is that the chemistry of the water (e.g. chlorination!) may affect low dilutions, i.e. low activity mixes, to become even lower activity – invalidating the timings about to be used. By not using prewash I hope to have eliminated one uncertainty factor. Less actions taken means less chance to do errors.
1. Pour in developer, “agitate” while the lid goes on the tank and keep it going until a full 30 seconds.
There is no need to haste! Keep your actions slow, steady paced, and precise.
2. Agitation, Standard dev: One turn every full ODD minute (1 turn per 2 minutes!), bang tank against sturdy surface as last thing for a turn. A missed second, two or even ten or fifteen will NOT show up as a “blob” in the result.
Argument for banging the tank on a surface: Have a go and place the spirals in your open tank, then fill your tank with water. Look into it to see how much bubbles you have – now practice banging to remove those bubbles. I have to bang real hard to get them bubbles to move.
3. Water wash instead of stop, in case of caffenol the wash is more than one minute with several water changes to fully flush out the coffe color – saves the fix, I hope.
High dilutions of developer, e.g. 1:40 (1 part of 40)and lesser, requires/makes so long/slow development that water is just fine – the extra few seconds it takes to stop the process will not show any discernable difference on the result.
4. Fix. Pour up a small amount (50ml/cc) in a suitable container and insert the film pieces cut off in step C. These has to clear in the fixer, thus telling how much longer to leave the film in the fix. 1 minute clear time = 2-3 minutes of total fixation, I mostly leave it in for 4-5 min at least. Replace fix if it needs more time than so. If the film pieces doesn’t clear, pour out the fixer and mix a new batch immediately, do restart the timer and go from there. There is no hurry! The film won’t hurt of being in the fix for longer than necessary. NOTE: I save these pieces, this will tell a tad about how well the main film was developed, how much fog and tainting there is remaining.
5. Wash under prepared tap.
Prepareation is several minutes of thermometer usage to get a fairly stable temperature, should be no more than a 2 degree difference to developer temperature. 5-10 minutes of washing depending on soluability of fix.
6. Stop the running water, add one tiny drop of dish detergent, stir and allow 30 seconds of soak, then flush out the majority of it. Aim at having a tad of foaming remain. Leave it there…
7. Pre-steam your shower (run hot water in the shower for a few minutes). This is to have any airborne dust removed.
8. Hang film to dry, leave for 1-3 hrs depending on circumstances and film (Fomapan is slow to dry).
9. Scan & postprocess, (or wet-print for those that do it that way).
This initial version of this text posted here.
The green cells below allows entry of degrees of temperature (column C), a choice of C or F temperatures (D2) and a standard time for development (e.g. from the massive development chart at http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php ).
This then calculates the adjusted time for the new temperature – NOTE: THE RESULT IS AN APPROXIMATE VALUE.
This works in both “Open office” and MS Excel…
| A | B | C | D | E | ||
| 1 | Farenheit k | -0.045 | ||||
| 2 | Celcius k | -0.081 | Use: | Celcius k | -0.081 | |
| 3 | ||||||
| 4 | Known | Temp | 20.00 | Time | 0:09:30 | |
| 5 | New | Temp | 20.50 | Time | 0:09:10 |
EDIT: Added “0:” before the times, which stands for HOURS.
If this isn’t there you’ll get confused with hours being the leftmost digit.
Also: The Celcius k should read -0.081.
Ilford has a temp chart that differs slightly from the result of this, use -0.051 and -0.090 as k’s for results closer to that table.
Klick on cell E5, and then type:
=E4*EXP(E2*(C5-C4))
In cell E2 I have typed
=VLOOKUP(D2;A1:B2;2;0)
… but it could just as well be the value for Celcius (or Farenheit) from B1 or B2.
To continue my style; click on cell D2 and select “Menu: Data > Validity… > Criteria” and then enter the settings:
Allow; Cell range
[v] Allow blank cells
[v] Show Selection list
[ ] Sort entries ascending
Source; A1:A2
Click ok [OK]
NOTE: There is a similar setting in MS Excel, I know because I have used it, but cannot check the exact steps as I haven’t got access to it at home.
Now, when you can click on D2, you can select Celcius or Farenheit – by that setting the value in E2, and affecting the calculation accordingly.
For conversions, download and install OpenOffice and have a go with the spreadsheet.
Type in a table with your ingredients as in:
A B C D E 1 Item CCM CCH CCL Choice 2 Soda 54.0 50.0 16.0 B 3 Vit C 16.0 15.0 10.0 Amount 4 Kbr 0.0 0.9 2.0 =30*10 5 Coffe 40.0 40.0 40.0
The numbers on row 2 and below in columns B, C and D are the gram weights per liter from http://caffenol.blogspot.com recipes
E4 will display “300″ for 30ml per fl oz and 10 oz
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conversion_of_units – for help with conversion of metric units
Now in cell F1 and below type:
=$E$4 & “ml “& INDIRECT( $E$2 & ROW(A1) )
=$E$4 / 1000 * INDIRECT( $E$2 & ROW(A2) )
=$E$4 / 1000 * INDIRECT( $E$2 & ROW(A3) )
=$E$4 / 1000 * INDIRECT( $E$2 & ROW(A4) )
=$E$4 / 1000 * INDIRECT( $E$2 & ROW(A5) )
=$E$4 / 1000 * INDIRECT( $E$2 & ROW(A6) )
Assuming you type correctly, these will display:
300ml CCM
16.2
4.8
0
12
4.5
I hope you realize that “INDIRECT( cell-reference ) ” takes the CALCULATED cell-reference and inserts the contents of the cell it points out into the formula.
$E$4 means cell E4, but also “do not change the column or row reference” ($ before each).
“/” means divide, * is multiplication, & just concatenates – i.e. attaches values or text beside each other, what is inside “-quotes remains there as fixed ‘value’ (qoutes not shown).
Now changing the Choice is simpy typing in e.g. “C” in that cell, for CCH or “D” for CCL.
Changing the Amount for 20 oz, menas typing in
=30*20
in the cell
The changes will be immediately reflected 600ml for Amount and in column F you will see the double values compared to the previous ones (as shown above).
